How to Choose an HVAC Contractor: 12 Questions to Ask
Equipment brand accounts for a small share of how your system performs. Installation quality accounts for most of it. Screen the installer harder than the box.
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Start with the two possibilities that are completely normal, then work through the five that are not. Most cases resolve without a service call.
Cool air from the vents in heating mode is alarming, but heat pumps genuinely deliver air at a lower temperature than a furnace does — typically 90–105°F rather than 130°F. Air at 95°F feels cool against 98.6°F skin even though it is heating the room perfectly well.
Every so often in cold, damp weather the outdoor coil ices up and the system briefly reverses into cooling mode to melt it. During those 5–15 minutes the indoor air goes cool and the outdoor unit may steam dramatically. This is designed behavior. If it happens every 20 minutes, that is not.
Hold a thermometer in the supply register. Anything above about 85°F while the compressor is running steadily is normal operation, not a fault.
Check that it reads Heat and not Cool or Auto. Auto mode with a narrow deadband can cycle into cooling on a sunny afternoon.
If the system blows genuinely cold air continuously and the outdoor unit is running, the reversing valve may have failed or its solenoid may have lost power. This one requires a technician. Repair cost typically lands between $400 and $1,300 depending on whether the valve body itself must be replaced.
A leak reduces capacity until the system can no longer produce meaningful heat. Symptoms include long run times, ice on the lines and a gradual decline over weeks. Refrigerant does not get consumed — if it is low, there is a leak, and topping it off without finding the leak is money spent twice.
Snow drifts, leaves and a coil encased in ice all stop the unit from absorbing heat. Clear the area, and never chip ice off the coil with anything hard. Warm water or the unit’s own defrost cycle is the safe approach.
On the coldest days the heat pump alone may not keep up, and if the backup element or its relay has failed, the house drifts colder while the vents blow air that is technically warm but insufficient. Check whether the aux indicator is lit while the temperature falls.
You see ice that does not clear after a defrost cycle, hear grinding or screeching from the outdoor unit, smell burning, or the breaker trips repeatedly. Do not keep resetting a breaker that trips.
Last checked August 2026. Prices are US ranges and vary by region — always confirm against written quotes.
Equipment brand accounts for a small share of how your system performs. Installation quality accounts for most of it. Screen the installer harder than the box.
Start with the two possibilities that are completely normal, then work through the five that are not. Most cases resolve without a service call.
Mitsubishi reports faults as two-character codes and as LED blink patterns. Here is how to retrieve a code and what the major families of codes point to.
A light coating of frost in winter is expected. A block of ice encasing the coil or ice on the top of the unit is a problem you should not ignore.